Australian Adventures (9) July11

Australia July 2011

Travelogue 9  Stage 2 

Daintree – Mt Isa

from Bryan and Raewyn

Email: bryan.raewyn@yahoo.co.nz

Web: austadventures.blogspot.com

Daintree

Our last travelogue (#8) saw our arrival at a friend's property, in the world-heritage Daintree Rainforest area on the north-eastern part of Queensland's coast. Fifty kilometres south was Port Douglas, an upmarket resort area with boutique shops and cafes. Fifty kilometres north, after a roped-ferry crossing across the crocodile-inhabited Daintree River, was Cape Tribulation, where the rainforest meets the sea. This was as far north as we got. After two and a half wonderful weeks in Daintree, it was time to move away from the coastline which had accompanied us from Melbourne, so on July 6^th we headed inland, away from the coast.

Rasewyn photographs the Kuranda train

Mareeba

Our drive took us through Mossman, then west across the Great Dividing Range. This range almost parallels the east coast from the northern tip of Australia to Victoria. East of the range is 90% of Australia's population. West of it is the other 10%. Atop the range, and midway across the rolling green Atherton Tablelands is Mareeba, a charming country town with a delightful caravan park in the rodeo grounds. We spent five days there, exploring local towns and sights, including driving again to Kuranda, the tourist town near Cairns. This time, instead of our taking the “Skyway” gondola back to Cairns, we waited until 3.30pm and watched the last train leave. Within minutes, the roller doors came down across most of the shop fronts and the town became deserted, except for a few rumpty locals. The town seemed to have ceased to exist, or at least until the next morning when more hordes of tourists arrived

Bryan straddles the Gulflander train at Croydon

Croydon

Croydon's main street

Croydon cemetery

From Mareeba, travelling westward took us off the tablelands, into the true Queensland outback. A hot, dry 280kms drive along the Savannah Way, the road bordered with rust-coloured grassland and small trees, took us to an overnight stop at Mt Surprise. Next day another 260kms drive west across the sunburned landscape found us in Croydon, and a 120 year step back in history. The local general store in this old gold-mining town opened in 1884, and is still operating today, both as a store and living museum. 
Many town buildings have been renovated and reopened in their original livery, complete with displays and photographs from the late1800s. Close by, the Croydon cemetery spoke silent tears of the hardships faced by the long-gone families, and children, in this dry unforgiving landscape. Many of the rusting graves hold conch shells, some virtually undisturbed since they were placed there in the late1800s. In the Chinese section, stones inscribed with Chinese symbols lie at the foot of each grave, and lizard tracks cross the red dust between the rows, separating Chinese from Catholic, Catholic from Presbyterian, rich from the poor.

Croydon is also the eastern terminus for the heritage-listed “Gulflander Raillcar,” a weekly 'service' from Normanton, 140 kms away. The 2-car 'railmotor' takes an incredible five hours to make the journey at a hair-raising speed of 40kmph across the scorched landscape. It returns to Normanton the next day. That's it for the week. It's been doing this for 120 years, and big celebrations were afoot in Croydon to celebrate the occasion later in July – unfortunately after we had left.

Leichhardt’s Lagoon

Leichhardts Lagoon sunset

Leichhardt's Lagoon camp-note the dust

Several caravanners had recommended a unique camp called Leichhardt’s Lagoon, our next stop. On a private station, our site overlooked a large lake where sunset each night was a scarlet sky deepening to a maroon glow before clusters of stars filled the night sky, much of this reflected in the lake. Though still 27 kms from Normanton,and with no electricity supplied, we stayed four nights. Camp fires and pets were allowed, and the ablutions block with its corrugated iron walls, gas-heated hot water, and green tree frogs commonly in the toilet bowls added to the novelty. Washing machines were “Free - Just bring your own generator” and the local telephone booth was a plastic chair and a tall booster-aerial wire – 'bring your own phone and connect up.'

The reason to not swim at Leichhardt's Lagoon

Each night was 'happy hour' at the caretakers' caravan- take your own chair and drinks. On Saturday nights a 3-course meal was prepared by the station owners at their homestead grounds on the other side of the lagoon. Soup, mains and dessert all for $5 each, proceeds donated to the Royal Flying Doctor Service. Just bring your own chairs, table, drinks, plates, cutlery and insect repellent'

Life size model of crococodile shot near Normanton,Qld

Some 27kms west of our camp was Normanton, western terminus for the “Gulflander” and gateway to the Gulf of Carpentaria. About 73 kms north, the sealed road ended at the small town of Karumba - interestingly the only sealed road to the coast on the western side of Queensland. Karumba is fish, fish and more fish. If you're not into fishing, there's little else to do. Some folk go there year after year. A day at Karumba was enough to satisfy our curiosity, and we drove the 100kms back to our camp at the lagoon, just in time for happy hour, of course.

Mt Isa from lookout

Mt Isa 
Tuesday July 19^{th ,}we left Leichhardt's Lagoon, headed south, and followed the Matilda Highway through Burke and Wills Junction to Cloncurry and Mt Isa, overnighting along the way at “Terry Smith Lookout” a small roadside reserve, where amazingly another twenty or so caravans or motor-homes pulled in for the night.

There's no doubt the famed annual “Grey Nomads” migration is well under way. It's suggested each winter some 60,000 “grey nomads” from Victoria and South Australia make the pilgrimage to the warmer north, and the inland roads abound with herds of them travelling in their mobile homes in various directions. Nightfall sees instant small towns created in roadside reserves, then dissipating the following morning. We are part of it, and it's a great experience.

Wednesday July 20^th we arrived at our nephew's property in Mt Isa. We had been out of phone contact for the previous ten days, and on arrival had several messages awaiting us. Sadly, one of them was that our very dear friend and long time caravanning buddy, Ron Martis, had suddenly died in Rotorua, New Zealand the previous day (Tuesday 19^th). Some of the places we visited in Australia were on his recommendation. The rest of the day was spent in limbo, and though we tried, we couldn't make it to the funeral, but managed to watch the service via Skype, courtesy of our daughters.

Lake Moondurra, 18kms from Mt Isa

Mt Isa, with a population around 20,000, exists mostly to serve the huge mining complex on the western edge of the city. Tall chimneys dominate the landscape. Some 450kms of tunnels honeycomb the 27 levels underground. 18 kms away is Lake Moondarra, an artificially created lake supplying an increasing demand for water in this alien landscape. Anywhere out of the city, the landscape turns again to semi-desert. Closest next town is Cloncurry, 117 kms eastward. Mt Isa is an oasis of energy in an ancient land.

Attached to the Tourist Centre, is the “Hard Luck” mine, an experience created solely for visitors. A miners' lift lowers two floors to an awaiting miners' train which takes visitors to various mining activities. All equipment, including the train, is authentic - including having to wear bright orange overalls, helmet and miner's light. Not being for the claustrophobic, Raewyn preferred to go shopping.

Beware of 53 metre long road trains in Queensland outback.

Stay with us as our next journey continues westward across this huge country.

                               (Hint - double clicking on the photos above will enlarge them)

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Australia June 2011

Travelogue 8

Stage 2 Whitsunday Islands-Daintree

from Bryan and Raewyn Jenkins

Email: bryan.raewyn@yahoo.co.nz

Web: austadventures.blogspot.com

Whitsundays

Seaflight

Our last travelogue (#7) saw our arrival at Airlie Beach, in the Whitsunday Islands area of the east coast of Australia. This has to be one of the most scenic parts of Australia,and a major base for cruises to the Whitsunday Islands and Great Barrier Reef. We stayed eight days and went on three cruises during that time.

Monday May 30^th dawned brilliantly fine, an idyllic day. Our boat, “Seaflight” knifed across a barely rippled sea to the Great Barrier Reef. On arrival our boat tied up to a large covered pontoon, which became our base for the day. All around, the horizon was a straight line broken only by the slight peek of the Australian mainland, some 95 kilometres from where we had started. In the other direction about 200 metres away, Pacific ocean swells broke over the outer reef. The water was blue and warm, and the crew told us our day was the clearest water they'd seen for some weeks. We were in luck

Gt Barrier Reef Pontoon

From the pontoon, one can go tripping in a glass-bottomed boat, underwater viewing in a semi-submersible, snorkelling about the reef, or at extra cost, scuba diving or a helicopter flight. We opted for the glass bottomed boat, semi-submersible and snorkelling. All snorkelling equipment is supplied, including 'noodles' to keep you afloat, plus a floating rope extending some 60 metres from the pontoon to a fixed buoy, allowing you to pull yourself along while viewing myriads of fish and coral below. It made snorkelling so easy that after a few anxious moments, we both dived in and felt at home though the water was ten metres deep. Below the surface, the reef was alive with fish of all types, and the corals amazing.

Gt Barrier Reef Pontoon (95kms from land)

Lunch was provided on the “Seaflight” (as were morning and afternoon teas) After a long and relaxing lunch, some folk preferred to laze in the sun. others took once more to the water. All up, we were at the reef about four hours.

On the way back to port, Raewyn 'won' a free cruise for the following day on the “Camira” after a contest aboard our “Seaflight.” Rather cunning, as we then had to pay for a second ticket, but at least managed to barter the price down somewhat – it being 'winter' and the lack of tourists, etc.

The “Camira” is a 23 metre sailing catamaran and this trip was slow and monotonous, the views restricted to one or other side of the boat at any one time. Again, all food was provided, including this time free beer and wine , a small consolation for the discomforts. The crew were excellent, if a little overworked raising and lowering sails and keeping guests from tangling themselves in the ropes and sails. The wind was barely enough to fill the sails, so the highlight was going ashore for an hour at Whitehaven Beach, on the ocean side of Whitsunday Island, while the crew prepared lunch.

Whitehaven Beach, Whitsunday Islands

Wednesday June 1^st,we went on a third cruise,this time on “Voyager”, visiting three islands in the Whitsunday group. Again, we went to Whitehaven Beach on Whitsunday Island, but stopping off on the way at Hook Island for some snorkelling off the beach, plus a semi-submersible trip along the local reef. Next stop was Whitehaven Beach. This 7 km long beach has to be the highlight of any trip to the Whitsundays. Crystal clear water lapping fine white silica sand, an azure sea beyond. As with all our time in this area, we had blue skies, and only the slightest of breezes. Postcards don't do this area justice.

We'd also pre-arranged a short float plane flight from Whitehaven Beach, and around 1pm took off in a 50 year old single engine aircraft for a figure eight circuit around Whitsunday Island. The view from above was outstanding, and the flight all too short. Landing back in the sea was exciting stuff, a flurry of spray and we were down, smiles from ear to ear.

From Whitehaven Beach the “Voyager” took us to Daydream Island. This is the ultimate holiday island – a five star resort with hotel, chalets, shops, pools, theatre, and no cars. Perfect for the wedding we saw taking place there.

Airlie Beach, Queensland

There's 74 islands in the Whitsundays group, and most are national parks. There is more to this area than just the islands and reef. Airlie Beach is an easy-going town, very much a back-packers paradise, the hill behind the town spills over with a plethora of apartment blocks. Close by are beautiful bays and protected inlets, many walks and other activities. Airlie Beach residents lay claim to theirs being the friendliest town on the coast, and it shows.

Bowen

From Airlie Beach, it was on to Bowen for three nights. Bowen's fame revolves around where the film “Australia” was shot. The jetty (in the film) is real and one can walk along it. Though most of the sets have gone, Bowen's character is still very much 1940s. It's old hotel facades and shop fronts make you feel as though you've entered a time warp. Bowen residents though are very friendly, and welcoming.

Townsville

Next stop was Townsville, with the monolithic 285 metres high Castle Hill in the heart of the city being the main feature of the area. The steep three kilometre drive to the top is rewarded with views over Townsville to Magnetic Island some seven kilometres away. The coastline in this area, known as the Coral Coast, is dotted with islands, and there's cruises to many of them.

Mission Beach

Moving north, we spent three nights at Mission Beach, where Cyclone Yasi made landfall in February this year. There's still a lot of damage around - houses with roofs or windows missing, and thousands of trees lying where they fell in the forests, or strewn alongside the roads and beaches. The folk there are making the best of it, but it will be a long road to recovery. Bush walks led us to a few viewpoints, where large and aggressive cassowary birds live, but we failed to spot any, though apparently they were there. Most beaches along this coast are edged with coconut palms, the nuts laying on the ground in various states of decay. Fresh nuts could be opened and eaten, but most people seemed to leave them where they fell.

Cairns fruit bat (this picture is upside-down1)

Cairns

Next stop, and last major city heading north, is Cairns. This is where we saw our first fruit bats hanging by the hundreds from city trees. Only the most unwise park their cars under those trees and the paths below were littered with bat droppings.

7kms long Kuranda Skyrail

The reknowned tourist feature in Cairns is the Kuranda Scenic Railway and Skyrail. The beautifully restored train leaves Cairns and winds 25kms through rugged hill country to Kuranda village, stopping on the way, for obligatory photographs, at the mighty Barron Falls. Kuranda village is the typical tourist village, with high priced food and every trinket imaginable, but our strolls around the village were rewarding. Returning to Cairns on the Skyrail is a worthy experience. The cable-car winds for 7 kms above the rainforests, taking some 35 minutes to bring us back to where our bus awaited for the return trip to our caravan park.

Scarface-4.5mt Daintree crocodile

Daintree

From Cairns, it was a quick run through on 18^th June to our friends living in Daintree, far North Queensland. They live amongst the World Heritage Daintree Rainforest, not far short of the end of the sealed road. Across the road, the neighbours property backs onto the Daintree River, from where crocodile spotting cruises operate along the river. We were fortunate enough to be invited on a couple of cruises and saw about six crocs – the first few being about a metre long, the last being “Scarface”, a four-metre male. As we approached, his eyes watched our every move. You sensed there were even more eyes watching us from under the timbers, and the muddy river doesn't reveal anything below the surface – unless you jump in. *

Our friends have just bought themselves a new 4.7metre river runabout, and one Saturday we all went on a fishing run some nine kilometres to a sandbank at the Daintree River mouth. We saw no crocodiles on the way, though on the same trip a week later, we saw three massive crocs sunning themselves at spots along the river.

We've also visited Port Douglas, Mossman Gorge and Cape Tribulation, each a day trip. Cape Tribulation is a car-ferry ride across the Daintree River, then a 30km twisty drive through the rainforest, passing many restaurants and lodges. From Cape Tribulation, it's a 70 kms, or four hours, drive along rough tracks and river crossings to Cooktown. We gave this a miss. It was getting close to Happy Hour time.

Each afternoon, large bright blue Ulysses butterflies visited us. In the short rainforest twilight, wild birds visit, and on cloudless nights, the darkness opens to a garland of starlight. From here, we will be moving inland toward Mt Isa and Darwin and hope you will join us for the next part of our adventure.

Bryan and Raewyn

*I never thought a crocodile, would return my friendly smile

But he did with a grin so wide, I think he wanted me inside