Wednesday 14 September 2011

Australia September 2011
Travelogue 11
Stage 2 Alice Springs – Darwin/Katherine
from Bryan and Raewyn
Web: austadventures.blogspot.com


Alice Springs
Our last tales were from Alice Springs, where we spent almost three weeks enjoying the wonders of the red centre. Tuesday 23rd August, we left Alice Springs and retraced our steps north along the Stuart Highway. We'd planned another overnight stop at Devils Marbles as we had done before, but on arrival, flames licked the roadside, and clouds of wind-whipped smoke and ash from a huge grass-fire drifted across the rock columns and roads. Though the campsite itself was clear, any wind change could have meant a panic exit, so we decided to carry on, stopping overnight at Bonny's Well, a little farther up the road. Next day we again passed Three Ways, and with Alice Springs now 500 kms behind us, we entered new territory.
Daly  Waters pub

Daly Waters
We'd been advised to stay a night at Banka Banka Cattle Station, 50kms north of Three Ways. We were greeted by the greenest grass we'd seen for some time, and fresh cool spring water. Happy hour was around a huge camp fire near the original homestead, as a distant dingo howled and talk was of a mob of loose cattle near the road.
Daly  Waters pub
We'd also been told to not miss Daly Waters, some 340kms farther north and four kilometres off the Stuart Highway. In this outback village, the tiny pub is a clutter of bras, knickers, hats, horse gear, money, badges, ID cards and various other paraphernalia attached to every available space. Rusting ironmongery sits in corners and outside, a sign reads “Angle Parking Only Mate – Any Angle You Like”. Adjacent is an open air restaurant which serves 'barra or steak' nightly from about 6pm. We ordered for 6.30pm, dining with friends we'd made along the way. Barra means barramundi, the famous fish of the north. Alongside this pub/restaurant, the caravan park filled quickly with travellers here for this legendary meal, and the comedy and songs show which followed. In true country style, too quickly it all passed, and many happy campers farted their way back to their caravans.




 
Warm stream at Bitter Springs, Mataranka

Katherine
Next destination was Katherine, via Bitter Springs, Mataranka. Here, clear spring water flows gently alongside palms, ferns and tropical trees. Birds flit amongst the trees, and small fish accompany you in the warm stream. A short track leads to steps to ease into the 33 degree water, and many people take floats to drift some 100 metres downstream to where even more steps make it just too easy to get out. An overnight stop at King River roadside rest area then it was on to Katherine.

With a population around 6000, Katherine is nevertheless an important town in the Northern Territory. Major routes go west to Western Australia, south to Alice Springs or Brisbane, or north to Darwin, some 320kms farther. We booked three nights at a local caravan park, drove in, and almost bumped into a French girl we'd met at Ross River. We'd given her a lift to Alice Springs and said our goodbyes there. She was hurrying to get to Darwin for work. She had got a lift, but at Katherine the van had broken down and she was desperately trying to text us to see if she join us again. Her text came through just as we saw each other, so it was hugs all round. She joined us for our journey to Darwin.
Katherine Gorge

The broken down van belonged to two long-faced German girls. They had been told the alternator needed replacing but the only fault I found was a loose battery which every so often shorted out against the van body – easily fixed. As a test drive, the next day we all went to Katherine Gorge National Park, some 25kms east of Katherine. Endowed with rugged gorges, thousands of bats, kangaroos, snakes and crocodiles, the area is spectacular and well worth the drive. The five of us opted to walk some 30 minutes to the lookout, which gave a wonderful vista over the first gorge. In the 35 degree heat, we decided to not walk to the next gorge, some 7 kms further in. There's thirteen gorges in this national park. (The fixed van performed well, and our delighted German girls drove on to Darwin the next day.)
Mindil Beach sunset, Darwin


Darwin
From Katherine, it was but a short 200km hop to our next overnight stop at Adelaide River. Though just a whistle-stop town, Adelaide River is home to the Northern Territory's Commonwealth War Graves, final resting place of the hundreds of military personnel who died defending this part of Australia during WW2.
Darwin Beach and harbour
Then it was on to Darwin arriving there on a 34 degree last day of August. First visit was to the Mindil Beach Sunset Markets, on Thursday nights. This is a colourful mass of music, entertainment and food stalls bordering the beach. The outstanding moment was perhaps the sunset over Darwin Harbour. Most market-goers, perhaps 800, walked the few metres to the beach to sit on the dunes as the setting sun turned the sky deep red, the sea afire with shimmering ripples of golden light, ending only where the last wavelets touched the shore. Add to this the two didgeridoo players who decided playing to a packed beach crowd was better than playing to an empty market and you get some idea. The sun dipped below the horizon, the sky went through purple to indigo, people roused themselves from the dunes and went back to the markets, now ablaze in colourful night lights.

Crocodylus Park
Another day was to Crocodylus Park, which contains over 1500 salt water crocodiles, some bred there, others rogue crocodiles brought in from outlying areas, including one found in Darwin Harbour. Feeding them close up gives you a healthy respect for these reptiles. Handling a baby crocodile, with its mouth conveniently taped up was a unique experience. There's other crocodile attractions in Darwin: Crocosaurus Cove, or several river boat cruises to see the jumping crocs. With few other tourist attractions, Darwin is a place you go to “'cos it's there.” It has some small museums, art galleries and several historic sites from the 2nd World War days, when it was attacked more than sixty times by Japanese aircraft.
Hot day in Darwin - note where the pointer is

This part of the Northern Territory is noted for having only two seasons – The Wet and The Dry. We were there in the shoulder season (known as The Build-Up) with temperatures around 33 degrees, and no rain for months. As the Build-Up continues, humidity rises until the air is heavily saturated. Late October, the monsoons arrive and The Wet starts. Darwin buildings don't have guttering. They cannot cope with the monsoon downpours. Floods close main roads, and those who elect to stay there apparently 'go troppo' in the 40 degree heat and constant rain. We were lucky, as this year's Build-Up is running late, and our days there were a comfortable dry 33 degrees.

Darwin is the terminus for The Ghan train after its three day journey from Adelaide and also a jumping off place for cheap airfares to Bali and Asia, so the city caters for the many itinerant travellers, mostly back-packers, passing through. It's a young persons city, and has a laid-back nightlife.




Kakadu National Park
Overlooking Kakadu wetlands
 
Kakadu landscape
A week in Darwin, then it was on to Kakadu National Park, 250kms east of Darwin. At 130 kms to the gate, another 120kms to Kakadu's main village, Jabiru, and over 20000 kms square, this is the largest park in Australia and only slightly smaller than Belgium. Distances here are colossal – 40 or 50 kms between sights is normal. Raewyn took a 30 minute plane flight over a very small portion of the park, seeing vast escarpments and the huge wetlands in the local area. We then visited Ubirr, where the park borders Arnhemland. Here are Aboriginal rock paintings, believed thousands of years old. At Ubirr, the East Alligator River separates Kakadu from Arnhemland. About 100 metres long, a concrete causeway joins the two riverbanks,allowing vehicles to cross. Upstream from this causeway, the muddy crocodile infested river flows deep. The river is only inches deep over the causeway to the tidal downstream side. From a viewing area, we watched as around five crocodiles lazily floated upstream, heads barely above the water. Apparently, for every crocodile one sees, another six are below the water. They're waiting for any fish which wanders into their territory – or any person who decides to walk across the causeway Signs warn people to not attempt the crossing, but sadly some have, with obvious results.



Litchfield National Park
Swimming at Wangi Falls, Litchfield Nat Park
With most Kakadu waterfalls dried up, and humidity increasing in The Build-Up, we stayed only two nights before heading back toward Katherine, via a two-night side trip to Lichfield National Park, south of Darwin. Not far within the park are huge magnetic termite mounds, some up to 5 metres high. These slab-shaped mounds have their narrowest side facing north, to keep them cooler at the hottest part of each day. The road then winds some 60kms passing other features to the main attraction, Wangi Falls. Here a pleasant waterfall drops into a large lagoon safe for swimming – as long as you don't mind the fresh-water crocodiles (which for the most part are harmless).

Katherine(again)
Now we're back in Katherine, resting, washing and writing this blog before we travel to Western Australia, and new adventures. We hope you join us. For those interested in this part of Northern Territory, I recommend reading “We of the Never Never” by Jeannie Gunn, a delightful tale of farming in the 1900s. This book will add a new dimension to your experiences in this wonderful area.


No comments:

Post a Comment